Why the label matters more than the picture on the bag

Walk into any feed merchant or farm shop and you will find shelves stacked with cheerful bags showing glossy hens in green meadows. The artwork tells you very little. The real story is in the small print panel on the back, where the percentages, ingredients and added vitamins are listed. Once you can read those numbers, choosing feed stops being a guessing game and becomes a straightforward decision.

Chickens are not fussy eaters, but they are surprisingly specific in what they need. A laying hen will eat roughly 110 to 130g of feed a day, and almost all of her nutrition has to come from that small amount. Getting the balance right shows up in egg numbers, shell quality, feather condition and how well she copes with a British winter.

Most complete feeds fall into a few categories: chick crumbs, growers, and layers' pellets or mash. Pellets are the easiest option for most small gardens because hens cannot pick and choose between ingredients, which means less waste and a more consistent diet.

Protein: the number that does most of the work

Protein is the first figure most keepers look for, and rightly so. It supports feather growth, muscle, egg production and repair. As a rough guide:

• Chick crumbs: around 18 to 20% protein for the first eight weeks
• Growers or rearers pellets: roughly 16 to 18% until around 18 weeks
• Layers' pellets: usually 16 to 17% protein for adult hens in lay

Quality matters as much as quantity. Look for the amino acids methionine and lysine on the label, since these are the ones hens are most likely to run short of. A feed with 16% protein from good sources will often outperform a cheaper 17% bag bulked out with fillers.

More is not automatically better. Feeding layers' pellets at 20% protein to hens that do not need it simply costs you money and produces wetter, smellier droppings. Do consider a slightly higher protein feed during a heavy moult, or for ex-commercial hens rebuilding condition.

Fibre and fat: the supporting cast

Fibre is listed as a maximum rather than a minimum, usually somewhere between 4% and 6% in a decent layers' pellet. It helps digestion and keeps the gut working, but high fibre means lower energy density. If a bag advertises fibre at 8% or more, you are likely paying for oat husks and similar filler, and your hens will need to eat more to get the same nutrition.

Fat is usually 3 to 5%. It is a concentrated energy source and helps the body absorb the fat-soluble vitamins A, D, E and K. Some feeds include added oils for omega-3 enriched eggs. Fat also goes rancid, which is one reason to check the best-before date and never store feed in a hot shed.

Calcium, vitamins and the mineral mix

Calcium is the headline mineral for laying hens, and a good layers' pellet contains roughly 3.5 to 4.5%. This is far too much for chicks and growers, which is exactly why you should never feed layers' pellets to young stock. Their kidneys cannot handle the load.

Even a well-formulated pellet benefits from a separate supply of oyster shell or limestone flour, offered free-choice in a small dish. Hens are good at regulating their own calcium intake when given the option, and it makes a real difference to shell strength.

On the vitamin side, look for vitamin A, vitamin D3, vitamin E and the B group, plus trace minerals such as selenium and zinc. Vitamin D3 is particularly worth noting in the UK, where winter daylight is weak and hens synthesise far less of it themselves. It is essential for absorbing calcium.

Be cautious about adding extra supplements on top of a complete feed. Vitamins A, D and E are fat-soluble and can build up to harmful levels. If the bag already contains them, you rarely need more.

Matching feed to the bird and the season

A hen's needs change through her life. Chicks need crumbs, growers need a middle-ground ration, and point-of-lay pullets move onto layers' pellets at around 18 weeks, ideally just before they start producing. Hens going through a hard moult often benefit from a little extra protein and a warm, sheltered spot to eat in peace.

In cold weather, hens burn more energy just keeping warm, so a slightly higher-fat feed or a small amount of mixed corn in the late afternoon can help. Remember that corn, sunflower seeds, mealworms and kitchen scraps are treats, not the main event. Keep them to around 10% of the daily intake so the balanced pellet still does its job.

A quick label checklist

Next time you are standing in the feed aisle, run through this list:

• Protein percentage suited to the bird's age and stage
• Fibre no higher than about 6%
• Calcium around 3.5 to 4.5% for layers
• Named amino acids and a clear vitamin and mineral panel
• A good best-before date, with vitamins degrading over time
• Pellets rather than mash if you want to reduce waste

Buy in quantities you can use within six to eight weeks, store feed in a cool, dry, rodent-proof bin, and keep a separate dish of grit and oyster shell nearby. Get those basics right and your flock will reward you with strong shells, glossy feathers and a steady supply of eggs.